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There are alternate explanations for their behavior. To start take advantage of spontaneous behavior. But a nearly equal number will underestimate the time, skill and elbow grease it takes to do it as it needs to be done - Especially if they are a new dog owner and have bought a high energy breed when they should have gone for a lower energy submissive type. The result is often a common catalogue of errors that can be, with more or less effort, headed off before they begin. But they don't reason out or get context the way humans do.Most dogs won't go own the first few times. Just dont EVER do it. It's totally counter-productive and won't help anyway. For the slow learner or assertive dog, it may be necessary to use a collar and short leash - two to four feet is best - 'Sit' the dog and kneel down facing him. You want the dog to associate the position with good feelings - his and yours.Make the hand gesture, issue the voice command and move a treat or toy from the dog's chin to the ground while pulling gently on the leash. Wait for the response. - Believe that the dog can associate consequences across time and conditions, then draw the same conclusion you would. So, the dog hasn't evolved to understand why you're hitting them. Praise and reward anyway, even though you had to 'force' the sit. Hold off on food treats until you really need them. Some will get it fast, some will take ten or more or won't get it without further prompting.Lets get one thing carved in stone right away - Dogs are not hairy fluffy kids. "Site" the dog then move the treat to the ground just in front of the nose. Physical punishment just isn't an effective training technique.Difficulty training 'sit' varies by breed, individual and training style. Try to be away from other voices.It also has practical benefits.Dogs, like humans, much more readily follow those they trust than those they fear.If the dog backs up do the technique near the couch or a fence where he has nowhere to go. At first, the dog will have no

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